As we walk around, Trinidad unfolds in front of us like a colourful canvas full of contrasts at any corner. The beautiful cobblestones streets, the tiny 100% cuban shops and the fancy touristy restaurants, all blend into an interesting trailer from the window of our Viazul. Fully loaded, we start our quest for the Hostel Armonia that just yesterday we managed to book through AirBnB. Unfortunately, the address written on their website doesn’t match reality and only after a good while of asking, walking and sweating under the midday sun, we finally reach the place. Although the hostel is on the outskirts of the city centre (not as advertised in AirBnB), after meeting the great hosts, seeing our shiny beautiful room and sipping juice in the little back-garden, there’s nothing left but… to smile back ! Great success (the next day breakfast was great)!
Shortly after leaving our bags down, we’re back on the road walking our way to the the main old plaza (took us around 10-15min). The difference between our quarter (where locals live) and the “old” but touristy part of the city is simply astounding. Dirt roads changing cobblestones, color of houses switch from dull to bright light tones and local shops becoming fancy locals with wi-fi areas, live music and mojitos. In Plaza Mayor (main plaza), we see the History museum and the Church of Holy Trinity (Iglesia de la Sanctísima Trinidad, symbol of the city. Just next to it, at the top of some old colonial steps (every night 5 bands play here “typical” cuban music), there’s the Casa de la Música (House of Music). The steps are also the holy grail for “wi-fiers” as that spot is the one and only access point around the area (the other being Plaza Carillo).
Once again, just a few meters along Calle Cristo you can find the smaller but nonetheless less famous Casa de la Trova, offering concerts all throughout the day. If you want to see something new, the more “modern” part of Trinidad can be reached in less than 10min by foot and features wi-fi (as mentioned before), ETECSA, Habanatour and exchange spots/banks (CADECAs).
Trinidad is a small but fascinating city but the real treat is getting lost: streets full of life, roadside sellers, kids going to school, horses, dogs, restaurants and nomad musician. On the other hand, always remember to “handle with care”: we even had to bargain for our restaurant menu, ha ! Also, quick tip for enjoying the concerts of Casa de la Musica: be sure to enter before 7pm as afterwards the entrance costs 1CUC per person (if you there before, you won’t have to pay !!!).
On our second day, we decide to visit Playa Ancon for a couple of hours. For it to be our first Caribbean beach, our high expectations for milky-white sand and crystal-clear waters ended up being a great disappointment. Think that after the 5CUC taxi there, clouds start to roll in covering everything ! Not a good start ! Once there, the super touristy hotel and loud commercial reggae music (just next to some trees where we leave our belongings) join the club of “not-as-I-imagined-beach”. Still positive, we go take our first swim just to find out that the crystal-clear waters are… cloudy-sandy waters due to the soon-coming rain. In fact, just a couple of moments later, we find ourselves swimming in warm waters with cold rain coming down on us. Even several flying fish decide to jump out of the water to greet and gift us an amazing spectacle. What a show !
Time for rel-… nope ! As we finally go back to the beach, we discover that a huge swarm of mosquitoes has been awaiting for us ! No insect repellent is good enough for that and in a couple of seconds, Marta has more than 15 mosquitoes buzzing around her legs. Guess its time to go back ! Maybe not today but in other days Playa Ancon has to be nicer (other fellow travellers agreed we were just unlucky).
In the evening, we decide to go have dinner at an Italian restaurant (the owner is Italian and his wife cuban) with a group of Italians we met earlier on the bus leaving from Viñales. Dining at Café Tuti (thats the name) is just something different that the usual “rice-with-something” in Cuban style; the place is beautiful, food is simply excellent (everything imported straight from Italy) but the only sad part is that there’s only one table in the whole restaurant ! On top of everything, the food is not just tastier but even cheaper than anywhere else ! Might have been the most touristy dinner we’ve had so far but… as food-break from the usual diet was well worth it !
The pictures from Trinidad speak for themselves !
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